CHOOSE THE 'REAL' VENICE

By Brian Wilson
Cruising Squared UK Correspondent
Photos by Brian Wilson

So you are thinking of a cruise next year and it is starting or ending in Venice – what are you going to do? Do you think there is any other answer than “stay a few days in the magnificent city”? Whether you add these extra days before or after the cruise – here are some ideas to make your visit even more enjoyable.

My wife, Mo and I have visited Venice on numerous occasions and we cannot wait to return. Venice can be very expensive and full of tourists rushing around trying to do the impossible - “doing Venice in 1 or 2 days” - so here’s a few tips:

Motorscafi and the Doge's Palace

First of all chose your hotel in one of Venice’s less “touristy” sestieri, or districts, each having its own distinctive atmosphere. This time we chose Santa Croce district and we were not disappointed. Now do not think that staying away from the “touristy parts” centered on San Marco will cause problems. The Water bus, or vaporetto, is an excellent way to get around Venice.


Venice’s airport (Marco Polo) recently has undergone “improvements”, so instead of a short walk; you now have a good 5 to 7-minute walk to the new boat dock. OK the route is partially covered, but you have to drag your suitcase much further - not a positive welcome to this special city.

Vaparetto or Water Bus

Your route to Venice includes road via bus or taxi (not one of our favorites) – special water bus (visit www.alilaguna.it/?lang=e) but check the routes as this service does not call at every possible vaporetto stop.

It may be that bit more expensive but we like the water taxis or motorscafi (visit www.motoscafivenezia.it/eng). These take you as close to your hotel as possible. You pay for the boat, so, if there is more than 2 in your party the cost per person comes down.
Whichever route you choose; buy your ticket over the Internet before your visit.
If you are staying in Venice for a few days (and why not!), then you should buy a tourist ticket that gives you unlimited travel on most routes (excluding the airport and some other services) for 1 day €20 up to 7 days €50 – go to “http://www.actv.it/en/movinginvenice/movinginvenice” to find out more.

Ponte do Megio, near our hotel

There is another very good reason to choose a motorscafi. There are some 400 bridges in Venice and with some 5 steps up and 5 down that means a total of 4,000 steps await you.
So, it makes sense to choose a hotel close to a vaporetto stop or use the motorscafi, as they can get as close to your hotel as possible.

All this does point out a problem; if you are less mobile or in wheel chair – you may find it a bit difficult to move around Venice – why not review sites such as “www.sagetraveling.com/Venice-Disabled-Access” who can give you the low down.

Ca San Giorgia, inner courtyard

So you’ve reached Venice and chosen Santa Croce – but where to stay? There is a wide range of accommodation, but we would recommend Ca San Giorgio (seek out more information at www.casangiorgio.com/). This gothic building, formally a convent, has been restored to create, what can only be described as a series of elegant suites.

All this can be found a few yards from the foot ferry (gondola traghetto) at San Marcuola on the Grand Canal. Motorscafi stop here, but vaporetto stop at San Stae, a short walk away. Ca San Giorgio includes 3 double rooms – our room had a balcony that looked down over the footpath to the foot ferry across the Grand Canal, ideal for painting and sketching. Other suites have view of the lovely interior court - the top floor room opens out to your own private balcony with views across the city. Ca San Giorgio offers a continental breakfast, the bread and pastries were fresh that morning and, as an espresso lover, I was not disappointed. If tea is your morning drink, that’s no problem.

Ca San Giorgio, traghetto stop

You’ll find an excellent welcome at Ca San Giorgio the “buon giornio” and a smiles were “real” - staff were very helpful. Their advice was spot on; they made bookings for us at restaurants and researched opening times of Venice’s numerous tourist sites
But, like many small hotels in Venice, there was no lift – ah well nothing is perfect – but staff offered to bring our luggage to our room.

There are so many restaurants in Venice – you are spoilt for choice. But beware of he “tourist hotspots” where prices are high – taking a coffee in Piazza San Marco will damage your wallet!! So, choose your restaurant off the beaten track – we found so much choice in the Santa Croce district and the prices did not “break the bank.”

Typical suite at Ca San Giorgio

Near to Ca San Giorgio we found (well actually the hotel recommended one of them) 3 lovely restaurants. For lunch we went to Trattoria “Al Ponte del Megio”. This small eatery on the Calle Larga faces the picturesque Megio bridge where a sole gondolier plies his trade. You can eat inside or outside by this backwater of the Grand Canal.

The view from our table

We arrived before lunch was served, yet there was no problem in sitting down and watching the world go by, allowing time for Mo to complete one of her many sketches and watercolours of this amazing city. We had seen the cook go to the local shops to buy that morning’s fresh produce, we had heard him making the fresh pasta – so we were not disappointed by our small lunch of pasta and salad, not forgetting a carafe of rather good house wine.

This Trattoria is open in the evenings and, judging by the fact that it seemed always to be full with local people, this must be the best recommendation of all. Our thanks to Milly and Paolo for such good value.

It is always a problem – where to eat on the first night. You’ve just arrived, you don’t know the area and you’re hungry!!!

Mo works on a watercolor

Ca San Giorgio staff directed us to a nearby restaurant – Antica Bessata on Salizzanda de Ca’ Zusto, where a new owner and chef had recently taken over. We sat outside and had a very enjoyable and tasty meal – real Venetian cooking that included freshly made pasta (especially pasta infused with spinach) fresh fish, vegetables cooked to perfection and a fresh salad. When choosing a wine you want to ensure that it complements the meal but, unless you are an expert you could be “dazzled” with choice.

At Antica Bessata we asked for the waiter’s wine recommendation and after some thought he offered us one of the nicest white wines, one with a clean taste, one that did not overpower the food. No, it was not an expensive choice – in Italy I have found that asking a waiter for advice and recommendation pays dividends. To find our more go to www.anticabesseta.it/ - Translate this page

La Zucca, a must for good food

The highlight of our trip – at least from the food point of view, came on my wife’s birthday. Again Ca San Giorgio came to the rescue – we had “found” the restaurant, but they made the booking. You need to book at this restaurant as it is very popular. The name – La Zucca (http://www.lazucca.it/?lang=en). Believe it or not La Zucca is just over the Megio Bridge from the Trattoria – so many excellent restaurants in such a small area.
This restaurant would be ideal for vegetarians, as they specialise in many wonderful vegetable dishes (and zucca means “pumpkin”). Carnivores will find a wide choice of excellent dishes you’ll not be disappointed.

The taste - perfection

The food was some of the best we have had in Italy and, if your Italian is not so good, the staff will explain the menu in some detail (definitely one of the best ways of improving your Italian vocabulary!)

The carciofii was mouth-watering as was the fish main course (we know it was fresh as we had seen it delivered that morning). But for me the Gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce was exquisite. I do not like blue cheese, but when it has been blended and infused into the sauce I was “hooked”.

La Zucca has a good wine list and we chose a wine from the Veneto region – just right!!
After the meal, when we said that the meal had been excellent, we found we were speaking with the owner who, like all good Italian chefs are fiercely proud of what they do, who then took some time to pass on his secret of making the gorgonzola sauce.

During our stay we visited the outlying islands of Burano and Torcello – but more of that at some other time. We will return to Ca San Giorgio and Santa Croce (you cannot get too much of a good thing) – and we’ll arrive by motorscafi. If you get there before us – just raise a glass, or your espresso cup and celebrate the delights that are Venice.

Mo on the island of Torcello --
hope to see you soon!